Quyllurit’i — meaning “Snow Star” in Quechua — is one of the most powerful spiritual and cultural celebrations in the Peruvian Andes. Once a year, just before the Christian festival of Corpus Christi, thousands of pilgrims — mostly Catholic but deeply rooted in Andean beliefs — make a nighttime ascent to the Sinakara Valley near Mount Ausangate, to worship El Señor de Quyllurit’i (The Lord of the Snow Star).
It’s a fascinating blend of Catholic devotion and indigenous Andean tradition — a syncretic celebration that honors both Christ and the Apus (mountain spirits), as well as Pachamama, or Mother Earth. With this blog post, we want to share an unforgettable experience in the hope that you, too, might one day witness it for yourself.
A Bit of Background
To truly appreciate the pilgrimage, a little context helps. The origin of Quyllurit’i (pronounced Koy-yoor-ree-tee) dates back to the late 18th century. According to legend, a young Quechua shepherd named Mariano Mayta befriended a mysterious, radiant boy named Manuel on the glacier of Mount Qullqipunku. When priests tried to capture Manuel — who was believed to be a divine apparition — he vanished into a rock, leaving behind the image of Christ. That rock became a sacred site, and the annual pilgrimage was born.
Over time, the event merged Catholic and pre-Columbian Andean beliefs. Today, Quyllurit’i brings together tens of thousands of pilgrims from across the Andes, combining rituals to El Señor de Quyllurit’i (Lord of the Snow Star) with offerings to Pachamama and the Apus (sacred mountain spirits). The pilgrimage has been recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2011.
One of the most dramatic and symbolic traditions of the pilgrimage was the climbing of the glacier by the Ukukus — men dressed in thick, bear-like costumes who represent mythical half-man, half-bear figures. These spiritual guardians would ascend the glacier during the night to retrieve blocks of sacred ice, believed to have healing powers and to bring blessings to their communities. Each man would carry the ice on his back, often walking hours or even days to return home.
Due to climate change and the retreat of the glacier, this ritual has largely been prohibited in recent years to protect the fragile environment. Still, the symbolism of the tradition endures as a profound expression of devotion, physical sacrifice, and harmony with nature.
Preparation: The Day Before
Since our hike took place overnight — typically on the Saturday before Corpus Christi — rest is essential. Make sure to sleep in the day of departure for extra energy for the night ahead.
In the afternoon, I did my usual food prep. A big, nutritious brunch kicked things off, followed by a trip to Huancaro market in Cusco. I picked up fruit, snacks, two liters of water, coca leaves (helpful for altitude), and of course, some chocolate and candy. Cusco is full of markets and kiosks open late into the night.
Packing tips:
- Bring layers — at night it can drop below 0°C (32°F), and during the day the sun at 4,700 m (15,400 ft) burns strong.
- Essentials: sunscreen, winter hat, cap, gloves, scarf, headlamp (or a flashlight), and a reusable water bottle.
- Don’t forget offerings: coca leaves or candles are common and meaningful.
The Pilgrimage Begins
We met at 9 p.m. at the colectivo station in Cusco. There are buses or minivans heading to Mahuayani, the village where the hike begins — about a 3-hour drive from Cusco. When we arrived, we simply followed the crowd — literally hundreds of people begin the trek together.
Before setting off, we warmed up with a bowl of Caldo de Gallina (hen soup). Vegetarians can ask the casera to skip the meat — she’ll understand.
Around 1:30 a.m., with coca leaves in our cheeks and soup in our bellies, we began the ascent.
The qoyllur Rit’i Night Hike
The first stretch is steep but manageable. This hike isn’t so much physically demanding as it is cold. Movement keeps you warm, and the companionship of hundreds of others — many with drums, flutes, and brass bands — gives a surreal and almost celebratory rhythm to the night.
An essential ritual on this journey is the Pago a la Tierra, or offering to Mother Earth. We placed three coca leaves on the ground, gave thanks, and made small personal wishes or prayers. Gratitude and intention — that’s what this moment is all about.
Along the way, we passed eight crosses, each marking a kilometer closer to the sacred site. At each cross, people lit candles and offered prayers. It’s emotional, especially under the stars and full moon — the event always aligns with the full moon in late May or early June.
Vendors line parts of the trail, selling everything from warm clothes and water to candles, snacks, and symbolic items like toy cars, miniature houses, and fake banknotes — offerings for abundance, success, and love.
This mixture of Catholic faith and Andean symbolism might seem superstitious, but it’s deeply rooted in a worldview that sees the spiritual in every corner of life.
Arrival at Sinakara
After about 4–5 hours, we reached the sacred valley of Sinakara, located near the glacier of Mount Ausangate. Here, at nearly 4,700 meters above sea level, the final destination awaits: a sanctuary built near the spot where the apparition of Christ supposedly occurred.
At sunrise, the valley transforms. The cold and dark give way to golden light illuminating the snow-capped peaks, alpacas roaming freely, and the rhythmic sound of conch shells (pututos) announcing the new day. It’s honestly magical.
Pilgrims line up to visit the chapel, while others rest on the green hills, take in the view, or join the celebrations. Groups of dancers dressed in traditional costumes — especially the Ukukus, mythical bear-like figures — perform ritual dances. Ukukus are the spiritual guardians of the glacier and represent a link between the natural and supernatural worlds.
To our delight, the local community welcomed us with free hot chocolate, served from massive pots.
Optional: Camping and Staying Longer
Many people bring tents and stay for one or even several nights. The full celebration includes Masses, traditional dances, and symbolic events like the glacier ritual, where the Ukukus once climbed to cut blocks of sacred ice.
If you stay, be extremely prepared for the cold — it snowed the day after we arrived, and the temperatures can drop well below freezing.
The Way Back
The return hike is downhill, but by then the sun is high and strong. Wear your sun protection and take breaks. The views are stunning, so take your time and savor them.
A word of caution: horses and mules carrying supplies frequently pass on the narrow trail — give them space and stay alert. The dry mountain air also kicks up a lot of dust, which can irritate your eyes and throat. I recommend bringing a light scarf or face covering.
Once back in Mahuayani, we found a colectivo and fortunately got some sleep in the car. The round-trip ride cost around 80 soles (approximately $10 USD each way).
If you’re in Cusco during late May or early June and want to experience something deeply spiritual, cultural, and completely unique — do this pilgrimage.
You’ll witness age-old traditions, walk under a sky full of stars, share hot soup with strangers, and maybe even have a moment of inner transformation. This is an experience in Peru you will never forget.
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